The Rise of Miu Miu: Fashion’s Hottest Brand Right Now
Fashion trends may come and go but ever since its resurgence in 2021, Miu Miu has has proven its lasting power in the fashion zeitgeist. Just last year, The Lyst Index dubbed it the “Miu Miu Year” reporting that the brand has charted the number one spot 3 out of 4 quarters in 2024 with an impressive third quarter sales that surged up to 105% year-on-year.
So what is Miu Miu’s secret to success?
Before Miu Miu
Miu Miu is often nicknamed Prada’s “little sister”. This origin comes from the fact that Miuccia Prada – the founder and designer of Miu Miu is the youngest granddaughter of Prada’s founding father – the eponymous Mario Prada himself.
Though Mrs. Prada might seem like a natural in the fashion game now, it actually took her quite a while to embrace her family’s Milanese luxury goods legacy. As a young adult, Miuccia focused on participating in 70s feminist movements, becoming a mime artist, and earning a political science degree (the latter of which she went on to pursue a PhD).
She became the head designer and co-CEO of Prada in 1978 after designing handbags in the accessories department alongside her mother starting from the mid 70s. By 1993, Miuccia decided to run solo with the goal to create a more accessible and playful fashion brand for women. Thus Prada’s spicier “Little Sister” was born, christened Miu Miu after Miuccia’s very own childhood nickname.
Today, Miu Miu remains Miuccia’s golden child and solo project where she has full creative control since Prada is currently co-creatively directed by Raf Simmons.
The Lasting Power of “Micro Mini Trends”
The idea of a lasting micro mini trend seems like an oxymoron. But Miu Miu has proven that diversifying and building upon facets of its previous success isn’t only beneficial for sales but also helps in maintaining a consistent brand image.
If you picture the most famous trends in the past 5 years, a Miu Miu product will come to mind. Balletcore? Think the strappy Miu Miu ballet flats or satin heels paired with bunched up knitted socks. Librarian chic? Think of their numerous muted midi length skirts and tortoise shell glasses. Office Siren? Think of their layered shirts or the popularization of eclectic bag charms.
To explore this formulaic success, look no further than the hit micro miniskirt that took over the runway, magazine covers, and Tik-Tok For You Page ever since its inception in 2021.
Although we’ve moved away from the micro miniskirt, other elements of the trend manage to spill over the following seasons. Preppy pleated skirts, raw hemlines, exposed briefs with the Miu Miu tag front and center, are now synonymous with Miu Miu’s house code and set a precedent for fashion’s hottest trends.
Whether the hemline has dropped down to ankle length or ditched completely in favor of sparkly sequined panties, these elements prove that Miu Miu didn’t have to reinvent the wheel every season but merely tweak it to serve fresh looks that everyone can see themselves in.
Even if you can’t afford to splurge on an entire matching set, the Miu Miu style is recognizable enough to work as a strong stand alone piece, which further encourages fans to mix and match the items with pre-existing pieces in their closet.
The Democratization of the It Girl
Back in the 90s, Drew Barrymore led a Miu Miu campaign shot by Ellen von Unwerth, which birth the iconic shots that have lodged itself permanently on many fashion girl’s Pinterest boards. The following year, actress Chloë Svingy spearheaded another notable campaign and even made her runway debut at Miu Miu SS96. The Miu Miu girl doesn’t have a particular look, but all seemed to possess that je ne sais quoi quality.
The face of Miu Miu’s current generation follows the elusive path forged by the it girls that walked before them. Miuccia Prada ran with the tradition of working with actors in her projects, from scream queens like Mia Goth to sex symbols like Sydney Sweeney.
Notably, the 21st Century Miu Miu girl isn’t exclusive to women. It has shown a mutable gene with the casting of Nosferatu (2024) stars like non-binary actor Emma Corrin in Miu Miu’s various campaigns and famously having William Dafoe closing the fashion show in 2024.
Miu Miu also expanded its world domination by tapping singers like FKA Twigs, Little Simz, K-pop idols like Minnie from I-dle and Momo from Twice, and Chinese musicians and actors like Lexie Liu and Zhao Jinmai to join the brand’s legacy.
Apart from traditional celebrities, the brand received bonus points among Gen-Z consumers by working with their favorite influencers like Ashley Bestdressed, Emma Chamberlain, Tanya Ravichandran, just to name a few.
Beyond the Clothes
Functioning beyond the fashion sphere, Miu Miu has positioned itself as a patron of the arts and culture. Clothes are just one way to make a statement. Now, Miu Miu is selling a lifestyle, the entire package.
In tandem with the rise of celebrity book clubs, Miu Miu became one of the luxury fashion houses to venture into the literary world. In June 2024, Miu Miu launched a weekend literary pop up shop in 8 different cities across the globe.
In this temporary take over, Miu Miu gifted 3 books handpicked by Miuccia Prada herself. The titles include Alba de Céspedes’s Forbidden Notebook, Sibilla Aleramo’s A Woman, and Jane Austen’s Persuasion. These stories are particularly chosen to highlight female voices across generations and gender roles.
On the motion picture front, Miu Miu’s “Women’s Tales” campaign has commissioned short films directed by talented female filmmakers since 2011. The list of directors include Agnès Varda, Chui Mui Tan, Miranda July, and more. Over the decade, the project has accumulated 29 episodes, making it the longest running platform of female-led short films.
Calling back to Mrs. P’s pol-sci roots, Miu Miu is playing into all types of Pierre Bourdieu’s capital. The success of the Miu Miu isn’t solely built on the backs of Prada’s previous prestige. Neither is the success only from the massive monetary spike nor the networks of front-facing and behind the scene it girls. It is also the cultural capital – having something to say beyond the clothes you wear – that completes the Miu Miu girl status symbol.
